DN NA Class

What do you guys put on your runners for storage?

For my non-stainless runners I coat the edges with a layer of medium-weight oil or grease.  You want something with enough viscosity that it will stay on the surface over the summer.  I just apply it with my fingers.

Put them away ready to go in Nov... Sharp, polished, greased, and stored edges UP. 

I bought some plastic gas pipe (PEC, the red stuff) and ripped a slot on a table saw.  I keep the oiled edges protected under the slotted tube all the time, greased for the summer.  Same is true of the 440C runners.  They rust lightly too, if the moisture stays on them.

I am compulsive about straight sharp runners, all interchangeable with each other, and spent months getting them all perfect.  That was several years ago, maintaining them great is easy since then.  But the edge protection is cheap insurance against future work/restoration.

When a newby, I spent most of a year on some "free" plate that had been stored edges-down in a wood box.  Rust pits took quite a while to grind out and then I had to restore the profile and edges.  Since then, grease, edges up, and stored ready to go...

Thanks for all the help,I need it :).Another question on runners,can small nicks (detected only by finger nail) be honed out with a stone set.Any tips with working with the stone set.I have 120,240,360,400 and 600.

Your small nicks can likely be stoned out.     But essential with every stroke go full length of cutting edge to avoid having any hollows.

Start with the coarser grits, work toward finer.  Be sure to keep lubricated.

Any specific lubricant?What do you guys set the runners on?

Any cutting-fluid for hand stoning that's appropriate for the stones is fine.  I used to use WD-40, now I use a water-based fluid from the company that makes the stones (http://www.borideabrasives.com/).

Some kind of vise is best.  I use a table-top "workmate"-like unit (see attached).  It has wood jaws so it won't damage the runner body.  I also use regular Workmate stands.

The biggest thing to remember about stoning is to make sure to hold the stone perfectly along the face of the edge.  The worst thing you can do it "roll over" onto the edge.  That will instantly dull the runner.

Another tool is double-sided sandpaper.  You can make it by taking two sheets of metal-cutting sandpaper (typ. 100-600 grit) and gluing them together with contact cement.  Then cut into pieces about 1" wide by 3" long.  Back a piece of that up with a stone (for flatness) and use it just like the stone.  The advantage is that after a couple of passes when the grit is filled with metal you can flip it over to a new area, and then throw the whole piece away when it's completely gunked up.

You can see a piece of it in the far lower right-hand corner of the photo laying on the stone I was using to hold it flat.

Thanks for the help,quick question what is the need for double sided sand paper,would not just one side sufice?

One main reason: the sandpaper against the stone helps hold everything in place with friction.

Two secondary benefits: 1) you have twice as many surfaces to use before getting another piece, and 2) the extra thickness makes the paper a bit stiffer and easier to handle.

  The best lube I've ever found is Smith's  Honing Solution available at Lowes. It even works on 304 stainless.  As far as sharpeners go the best I've found, and many of the top sailors use, are boride sharpening stones. If you want some they can be gotten at Borideabrasives.com. Look under polishing products and order a T2 sample kit for about $13. They used to include stones from 150-600 grit and they are easy to use an last a long time. Bob

I prefer to support our own group of dedicated vendors so rather than buy stones from a non-sailing vendor I simply call DN 44, Ron Sherry, at Composit Concepts. He can be reached at Tel: 586.790.5557 or e-mail: c2concepts@msn.com.

Quick  tip for making strips with sand paper, cut a bunch of wood strips what ever size you like, get some contact cement I prefer the spray, attache sandpaper to strip, when used up trow away.
3m contact cement spray or double sided carpet tape work well.
for polishing you can get up to 1000 grit wet , dry paper  at a a auto parts store.
Rast DN1313

Is it alright to keep runners in the travel bag?.Does any one have some pictures of a runner box?

Should probably clean sharpen and grease or oil any plain steel that can rust.
I keep all runners in a large box in basement for summer away from any water hazards, windows etc and up off floor. They are all sharp and ready to go for the western regional in december.

thanks Geoff :)