How to Refinish Steel Runners (not stainless)

[Sunfish1909]

I have a set of steel, not stainless steel, vintage "Sarns" runners with aluminum stiffeners. I also have the original wood box with the "Sarns" stamp too, nice. The runners have been primed with spray paint primer by their previous owner. I would like to clean them of and paint them a more durable finish like emeron. What do you suggest to strip these, prime them, and paint them. I will have to sharpen them after painting. I thought of an oiled cloth or sponge in the bottom of the box to keep oil on the sharpened, exposed surfaces to prevent rust. What ideas do you have as a way to maintain these runners as well as any refinishing ideas? Thank you.

[Bob Gray]

  I have no suggestions on cleaning and refinishing ,however a real easy way to get them ready for storage is to merely wipe them down with a rag soaked with regular motor oil. A lot of guys store their runners sharpened edges down in the box but I prefer to store them edges up. That way no trapped moisture will rust the edges or crap in the bottom of the box dull the edges. Dealers choice. 
                                                                              Bob

[Geoff Sobering]

I've also got an old set of Sarns plates ("aligator profile") that I'm planning to make into a budget set of snow-plates by cutting them down and perhaps replacing the stiffeners with wood/carbon.

Mine are also covered in some horrible paint.  My current plan is to buy some of the nastiest (read: "most effective") paint remover I can find and apply it until they're down to bare metal.  I'd be interested if someone has an alternative suggestion...

Cheers,

Geoff S.

[Ken Smith]

Firstly:  the stiffeners come off "easily" if the pins are knocked out.  They can either be returned to the runner plate after repair, or replaced with new.  (At least they could.  I bought replacement stiffeners from Bill when he ran the business.)

Secondly:  stripper or mechanical means can remove the paint.  The steel is not vulnerable to high pH, caustic strippers, but would be etched by acid.  THe primo job would be to take the plates to a quality metal finishing shop and have them straightened and blanchard ground back to original thickness. Then coat or plate with a thin coat of a rust inhibiting coating.  The shop outside Madison may well be willing to do this work.  Check iceboat.org to get the contact info.  OR Bare steel would work fine. 

Regardless.  After sailing, dry the runners, then spray or wipe the runners down with an oily preservative.  LPS-2 or LPS-3 last longer than WD-40.  Vasoline or motor oil work fine.  Oily rags can be a fire hazard.  Avoid corrosion.

THirdly.  Yes they have to be sharpened.  As bard steel, they can be restored to original on a Sarns jig and a mill.  The plates are bowed slightly, center down, then milled flat.  Or just sharpen on a sharpening table (or edge sander set up to 45 degrees) like any other runner.  Read the archives for sharpening tips, straightness, etc.  Then put the stiffeners on.

[Sunfish1909]

Thank you gentleman. I have been storing these runners upsidedown . They are now sharpened edge to the sky. My folks live near the Sarns shop and I am an hour and half out. I plan to take these over to them for a sharpening. I will contact them in regard to the suggestions of the last post. I will search the archives here too. Thanks again.

[Geoff Sobering]

Firstly:  the stiffeners come off "easily" if the pins are knocked out. ...

I don't know about the OP's runners, but the set I have pre-date the roll-pin attached stiffeners; there are a few spots that look like large-diameter Aluminum rivets that appear to bond the two-parts of the stiffener to the runner.

[US4961]

Something else to think about - If you are going to go through the trouble of taking them out of the stiffeners and to a machine shop, you might as well have them ground to the minimum thickness of 0.230".  I got a set of 440C plates from Ron and they are 0.230" in Sarns stiffeners.  It looks like he added a wrap of glass/epoxy between the aluminum stiffener, (slotted for 0.250").  This works very well and may even help reduce the galvanic corrosion between the Steel & Aluminum over time.