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ktb11
Newbie
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« Reply #15 on: February 07, 2013, 08:12:54 PM » |
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I have in fact thought of using a hand planer, I'm going to work on the edges of the plank with a router initially and see where I get to deflection-wise. Then I'll go from there... I really appreciate the tips and advice, it was a huge help!
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ktb11
Newbie
Posts: 11
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« Reply #16 on: February 07, 2013, 08:37:27 PM » |
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Is a straight bit recommended for use on the edges of the plank?
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Scott Brown
Class Member
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« Reply #17 on: February 08, 2013, 06:52:35 AM » |
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Use what you have, but whatever bit you use will still require some planing to smooth it out. On planks that are close to the right deflection, I use a roundover bit. On planks that start out really stiff, I start with a chamfer.
Browner
5298
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Geoff Sobering
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« Reply #18 on: February 08, 2013, 09:44:26 AM » |
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Is a straight bit recommended for use on the edges of the plank?
Unless you have some way of angling the router, a straight bit wouldn't change the profile (?) A round-over bit (3/8" is good) is the typical tool. |
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Man Why You Even Got to Do a Thing
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ktb11
Newbie
Posts: 11
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« Reply #19 on: February 08, 2013, 11:28:47 AM » |
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Sorry, meant round over bit!!
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JOHN BUSHEY
Class Member
Posts: 26
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« Reply #20 on: February 08, 2013, 12:20:15 PM » |
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The trouble with the router, and a round over bit is that it doesn't really remove much of the extreme fibers ( the top and bottom surfaces of the skins). Even a half inch round over bit on all four edges, you would only be effectively removing about 1/2 inch from the skin width.
See the attached comparison. This is based on a plank with 5/16 ash skins and a 9/16 pine core.
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Geoff Sobering
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« Reply #21 on: February 08, 2013, 02:06:20 PM » |
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The trouble with the router, and a round over bit is that it doesn't really remove much of the extreme fibers...
That's been my experience, too. Rounding over the edges does almost nothing to the plank stiffness. |
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Man Why You Even Got to Do a Thing
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Rick Lemberg
Class Member
Posts: 19
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« Reply #22 on: February 08, 2013, 03:27:29 PM » |
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I have run planks through a 12" planner upside down and removed material from the bottomside,I have also taken it from the top but you have to remove the 'wings' on the planner.Do a little at a time and measure the deflection.after you start getting close you can then taper your edges. Rick DN4155
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JOHN BUSHEY
Class Member
Posts: 26
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« Reply #23 on: February 08, 2013, 04:28:58 PM » |
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Here is a jpg version of the comparison:
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ktb11
Newbie
Posts: 11
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« Reply #24 on: February 08, 2013, 04:38:36 PM » |
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Okay. So now it looks like taking a router to the edges will have no impact on my deflection as I believed before, and its more of an aerodynamic effect and better appearance. I've heard several different things now, but I'm thinking I can't go wrong if I run it through a planer little by little until I hit 1 3/4".
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Geoff Sobering
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« Reply #25 on: February 08, 2013, 10:00:42 PM » |
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Just keep in mind the min. thickness: 1 1/8" at the center and 1" at the ends.
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Man Why You Even Got to Do a Thing
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JOHN BUSHEY
Class Member
Posts: 26
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« Reply #26 on: February 08, 2013, 10:44:38 PM » |
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Good point Geoff!
The examples above were just to show the effect and assume constant section for the full length of the plank. The analysis gets more complicated if your taper the plank in either the width or thickness.
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