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Author Topic: dn build jig  (Read 20683 times)
dntr
Newbie

Posts: 5


« on: January 19, 2011, 05:40:13 PM »

hi does anyone have pics of their build jig for hule
and or the full steps on making one  i have a set of puals plans do i just
lay out the base out line on a board/table and srew sometype of L brackets around
the outside of yhe side board or on the inside and do i put them anyplace from bow to tail
if so does it make it hard to glue /bend /clamp the tail together
i have found some pics of parts of them but not full pics
not sure if you make the L BRACKETS from bow to tail block
or only in some spots looking to start a build in the spring
and would like to start getting thing ready

thank you and any help would be great
« Last Edit: January 19, 2011, 05:52:42 PM by dntr » Logged
CIYOTI4148
Newbie

Posts: 9


« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2011, 08:35:25 PM »

i temp block out on template or template revision as i go,notjing elaborate,just ensure symetry and square.unless you are mass producing keep it simple
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Bob Rast DN1313
Newbie

Posts: 148



WWW
« Reply #2 on: January 20, 2011, 07:11:17 AM »

here is a link to some You tube videos of the Pewaukee Ice Sailing team Building Hulls
several good videos
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZRuG6LyUKA&feature=BF&list=PL20424E2B86C3B5C6&index=2

Good luck

Bob Rast DN1313
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Mark Isabell - DN5014
ADMIN

Posts: 34



« Reply #3 on: January 20, 2011, 08:47:41 AM »

That looks like the Four Lake Group building a hull, not the Pewaukee group.  The idea is the same.......
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rpotcova
Class Officer
***
Posts: 96


« Reply #4 on: January 20, 2011, 10:20:00 AM »

I have a "mass production" jig that costs about $40 in material and an hundred hours of of engineering changes and tuning.  I have sideboard mylars and component templates that go with the tool.  Want pics to make one or borrow the on I have?  U pick up (and return) - Monroe Michigan 

Let me know.

Rich   
rpotcova@comcast.net
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Geoff Sobering
Class Officer
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Posts: 461



WWW
« Reply #5 on: January 20, 2011, 10:22:43 AM »

That looks like the Four Lake Group building a hull, not the Pewaukee group.  The idea is the same.......

Yup. I was trying to find the photos I took "way back when". Hopefully I can find them sometime...

Mark: where are the videos of your "group build"?
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Man Why You Even Got to Do a Thing
Ken Smith
ADMIN

Posts: 289


sail often, travel light


« Reply #6 on: January 20, 2011, 03:34:43 PM »

Don't over think it. 

My first table was made with two 2x4 x 12' and a piece of cheap composite board cut into 9" x 2' pieces, plus four 9" x 35" pieces, assembled on 12" centers like a ladder, with the 2x4s about 18 inches apart, sitting on saw horses.  The long pieces went under wide part of the hull.  Care in level, square and straight, and a chalk line, provide references.  You can clamp through the gaps as necessary.  A bunch of bracketed plywood L's were used to clamp the side boards to, and they can be screwed or clamped to the table.  Hot glue is the tool to hold the bottom skin still on the table, if building right side up, bottom skin first.  Side boards first, the Goodwin method, is also easy.

The PISS table (Pewaukee Ice Sailing Squadron) table was more solid, and a Goodwin template was attached to the table under a clear mylar sheet.  We built twelve hulls on it.
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Ken Smith
DN4137US
Geoff Sobering
Class Officer
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Posts: 461



WWW
« Reply #7 on: January 20, 2011, 04:21:43 PM »

I found a posting I created on iceboating.net from when Byron and I built our boats:
   http://iceboating.net/node/view/1194
Unfortunately, most of the photos seem to have gone missing...  Sad

I've attached a couple of small files I found.

Basically, a flat surface long enough for the boat (147 inches) is really what you need.
We made ours from 3/4" plywood and it's held up for a number of years and boats. I just drilled a bunch of holes in it so I could clamp my plank down to it last week: http://www.iceboating.net/node/3299.

At the Nordhaus Boatwerks, we're lucky to have a Renegade-length flat jig to lay our plywood on, so we didn't have to build the supporting structure underneath it. I favor something a bit deeper and more stable than 2x4s, so I'd cut plywood into 6"-12" wide by 8' long sections with really straight edges and use that to support the surface (with appropriate cross-pieces). An 18" doubler with tons of screws & glue at the splice (to make the 12+ foot total length) should be strong/stiff/stable enough.
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Man Why You Even Got to Do a Thing
Jim McDonagh [us5214]
Class Officer
***
Posts: 49



« Reply #8 on: January 22, 2011, 10:46:18 AM »


Here's the 40 part DN Build presentation that Mark..

New feature on the new site..  Just click on the first image in the gallery and then sit back and watch the slideshow...

DN BUILD PRESENTATION
https://ice.idniyra.org/image/tid/28
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keukaflyer
Newbie

Posts: 28


« Reply #9 on: January 22, 2011, 08:11:33 PM »

Wow great presentation where was this a year ago when I started!!???

The site really needed this thanks!
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DN US637
Bob Rast DN1313
Newbie

Posts: 148



WWW
« Reply #10 on: January 22, 2011, 08:58:32 PM »

Nice series on Hull building

Here are links for some You tube videos Eric Wilson Shot of me and Mark Isabell
Building a DN Mast if you need additional content

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUQ9K4xNrIA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qkpTu6J0j8&feature=related

Bob Rast
DN 1313
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dntr
Newbie

Posts: 5


« Reply #11 on: January 23, 2011, 05:05:38 PM »

thank you to all that post up info it all looks great hope other could also us this and hope others can post up more info for all us newbes
i have 1 more ? do most screw down both tail area L brackets in place and bend the both side boards at the same time in the jig (how do you clamp the tail area and how do you fit both side board tails in the jig if there is extra wood in lenght of both)
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Geoff Sobering
Class Officer
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Posts: 461



WWW
« Reply #12 on: January 23, 2011, 06:10:17 PM »

do most screw down both tail area L brackets in place and bend the both side boards at the same time in the jig (how do you clamp the tail area and how do you fit both side board tails in the jig if there is extra wood in lenght of both)

We've always glued the aft curve in both sideboards in the same session. We've always had extra length, but during the "dry-run" we trim the boards so they both fit into place at the same time.

Also, for filler we've had good luck with the 1/16" thick Basswood sheets you can buy at the hobby store.
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Man Why You Even Got to Do a Thing
dntr
Newbie

Posts: 5


« Reply #13 on: January 23, 2011, 06:27:36 PM »

thanks geoff  thanks pretty smart idea and that should help my small problem i was thinking about
now just need to find some wood for side boardes here in N.J and i think i;m readt to start my build
might need to wait till spring and do a road trip to find wood
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keukaflyer
Newbie

Posts: 28


« Reply #14 on: January 24, 2011, 01:03:14 PM »

ML Condon Co. by White Plains is the place to get wood on the East Coast.  That's about it!
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DN US637
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