Random Hardware Questions

[DN 805]

I've used #8 flathead screws.    I think they were 3/4" so they wouldn't poke through the floor of the cockpit.     #6 sounds too small for me.     Must also add that the blocking under the floor where the plates are mounted is sitka spruce, which allows the screws to bite in.  The runner plank is solid and ash on the top, sitka spruce in the center.  The screws bite into the ash very nicely.

DN 805

[Ken Smith]

I am more conceerrned about the comment that teh hull plate holes are all round.

When teh plank flexes, teh studs get closer together.  Measure the distance between them, thne stand on the plank and measure--and teh plank will bend more in a big breeze.  In my experience, the difference is on the order of 0.25 inches.

Whether bought or fabricated, my hull plates have oval holes on one side.  This is to accommodate the stud(s) moving when the plank flexes.  It only takes a few minutes with a rat-tail file to elongate teh holes toward the boat center, and some attention to make the holes round enough to really let the studs move.

[Chad Atkins]

Another thought to the "weakest link" is Nylock nuts.  No problems with the boat/plank coming apart when it shouldn't and has saved many hrs in overnight boatwork over the past few years when it needs to.

 Happy New Year, Chad

[DNewbie]

I am more conceerrned about the comment that teh hull plate holes are all round.

When teh plank flexes, teh studs get closer together.  Measure the distance between them, thne stand on the plank and measure--and teh plank will bend more in a big breeze.  In my experience, the difference is on the order of 0.25 inches.

Whether bought or fabricated, my hull plates have oval holes on one side.  This is to accommodate the stud(s) moving when the plank flexes.  It only takes a few minutes with a rat-tail file to elongate teh holes toward the boat center, and some attention to make the holes round enough to really let the studs move.

Canny observation, Ken and one I hadn't considered. Definitely going to get out the rattail and have at it, as needed.

Chad, when you say Nylocks, are you talking about an all-nylon nut with no metal? This sounds like a good idea especially since I will have the holding power of 4 nuts instead of 2.

[Chad Atkins]

yup,   I  use single studs  and it has been fine.  Buy a bunch since they will strip and wear out if you try and tighten them down or if you just get to sail alot!

Good Luck,  CA

[Geoff Sobering]

Chad, when you say Nylocks, are you talking about an all-nylon nut with no metal? This sounds like a good idea especially since I will have the holding power of 4 nuts instead of 2.

The "holding power" of the nuts isn't really an issue.  Once the rig is up and tensioned, the nuts aren't doing anything (you could sail without them).  As Paul points out in the other thread, you actually want the nuts to be loose to allow the studs to move as the plank flexes.

Many people sail with plastic nuts exactly so they will be the weak link and allow the plank to pull away from the hull in a crash.